Roswell Without Incident.

No cycling today so we had all day to sample the delights of Roswell. Small town America was captured really well by singer songwriter Harry Chapin in the nineteen seventies and describing a town like this he said he spent a week there one afternoon and so it was for us. In the morning we went to the Bitter Lake nature reserve to birdwatch but it was not as bird filled as I would have liked but pleasant enough in the early light. Then we went to the alien zone! Well what can you say about a museum founded on a conspiracy theory and a few pop up shops selling tee shirts and other alien themed tat? All I can say is that it was Keith's fault as 'twas he that wanted to come here!

A glorious sunrise was the best the day would have to offer.

Keith with some new friends in the alien zone. 

Ordering two small beers resulted in Keith and Chris having their ID checked to see we were over 21 years old. It was done without a hint of irony and he actually checked the date of birth in detail!

One Thousand Miles cycled brings us to Roswell, New Mexico

One thousand miles. One THOUSAND miles. Sounds good saying that so I said it twice! We hit the milestone in a rather poor part of the Roswell of alien fame. To celebrate we're having one of your earth days off the bikes.

On our way before Roswell we fancied a sausage. We asked for it as a hot dog but they didn't do hot dogs (in the USA?) "We can do it in bread though" the serving lady said. This is the result!

That 1000.0 mile moment captured in noughts and ones. 

Don't blame me it was Keith that wanted to come here!

Watch where you walk - Western Diamond Back rattlesnake crosses the road. 

Leaving Corrizozo NM, In loving memory of Stormy B Trost

Chris's leg has not become inoperative in the night and we leave town in beautiful cool, clear light without seeing another dog. Hard going at first with strong headwinds keeping speeds to 10 mph even on the flat. Later in day the headwind drops and we get some long downhill stretches to bring the average for the day to 15.2 mph.
We climb up away from the arid plain to a pleasant green valley in Lincoln County which was the location of the famous (well famous in the USA at least) Lincoln County War of cowboy days in which greed and unrestrained capitalism led to multiple murders in fights between groups competing for government contacts. One character involved was Billy the Kid.

Keith leaving Carrizozo in early light. Both taken on iPhone on the move on other bike. 

Just how many people are called Sormy Trost such that you need to include the middle initial?

The Oppenheimer quote recalled :- Now I am become death, destroyer of worlds

Today we had a pleasant 77 miles leaving Socorro after a good breakfast in cool, clear sunshine. First we head south for 11 miles to San Antonio then turn east on highway 380 which had some of the best tarmac and cyclist friendly hard shoulder of the trip and there has been good competition. Funny how a hard shoulder becomes so important a part of our lives for a while.
The road runs straight across a plain containing the White Sands Missile Range and Trinity Site, the location of the first explosion of a nuclear weapon in July 1945. Today the place is safe again and we visit a shop selling "glass" formed out of sand melted by the explosion. At 30 dollars a gram we gave it a miss.

Is this the stallion after which the centre was named?

That wonderful hard shoulder. The only hazard is the wires from parts of disintegrated tyres (sorry tires) that can cause punctures as Keith found out earlier in the trip. 

Mandy in the rock shop with nuclear blast glass and two of the three inhabitants of Bingham, NM. 

Into Carrizozo. What could possibly go wrong?

After the run across the plain that contained the Trinity site the final run into Carrizozo should have been simple. If it weren't for that dog. I'd stopped behind taking pictures so entered town alone and as
I crossed the city limits a dog ran along side and took a bite. Fearing rabies I reported it to the Police and entered a form filling frenzy and worries about a turf war with the Sheriff who is responsible up to the city limits. Eventually the Poice and I went back and found the dog and owner. I'm told the dog will be impounded and if it shows signs of rabies they'll let me know. Here's hoping I hear nothing.

Looking at the lava fields near town. 

This is what the dog did to Chris's leg. Lucky he has two. 

The "No Scum Allowed" pub in White Oaks ghost mining town. We couldn't get in. 

Maths day? Pie, divide and the apex of the trip.

The day started cold and with some intimidating grey clouds. We had our first stop planned for Pie Town to eat, well, pie. The country to the east of Quemado was different to what we'd seen to the west. There were flat topped hills rising from dry flat grassland but with some colourful clumps of flowers.
The pie shops were closed when we arrived and as the place looked a bit uninspiring we decided to carry on after taking pictures at this place that is at 8000' the highest we've been up to this point.

Leaving Qemado. 

Pie Town is the real name of this small place situated at 8000' near the Continental Divide. 

Oh no not another picture opportunity thinks Keith. 

The Second Tuesday of the Trip has Two High Points.

The Continental Divide is a line on the map running north south down the Rocky Mountains. To the west all the rain that falls drains to the Pacific Ocean and to the east of it the water runs towards the Gulf of Mexico (as there is another, lower divide on the East coast that we will have to cross near the end of the trip.
Where it crosses Route 60 that we are on it is at 7796 feet above sea level and yet the town before is at 8000' and a few lies further on we reach the highest point on our trip.

We spent some time trying to get this picture into the morning sun until we realised there was another sign facing the other way on the other side of the road! 

The sunny shot! 

Within ten miles we pass 8083 feet above sea level (2464 metres) and I decide to celebrate as Keith passes by and rides off down the hill beyond. Didn't catch him for many miles!

Tuesday afternoon a long drop to hot and sunny Socorro NM.

We had lunch in the gas station/general store in Datil. The staff and other occupants would have made a great cast of characters for a series like Cheers. I dare say they thought we were pretty odd turning up on bikes, though.
As you can see from the sign it was safest not to discuss last night's Trump-Clinton debate.

Down from Datil we pass the Very Large Array. It's a spread out network of radio telescopes walking together. Like Defford on steroids. The plain they are on is 20 miles across.

At the end of the day we try Justin's patent warm down routine. Stop dead and drink beer! Thanks for the tip, Justin. 

At last. A land fit for our Enchanted Cycling Heros.

After an early morning bird watch in the forest we headed east, leaving Arizona after 14 miles crossing the state line to New Mexico, our third state.

Enchantment? We'd have settled for the return of smooth tarmac and a tailwind. The state line brought an immediate deterioration of the road surface and a strong wind from the side and ahead. It was a bit of a long drag up and down many more undulations with a rise of a thousand feet or so before dropping down to our finish in Quemado, NM. Not much seen today but long straight road with only one self proclaimed one horse town (actually just a former diner, now closed and for sale. 

Just not enough traffic I guess. After this we were surprised how good Quemado was and in particular the motel we'd booked was. Had to ring it up as not available on bookin websites and did not even have an email address. I asked why and they said the can't get the staff to understand how to use it! 

Hello flower. 

And when he can sell up, he'll up and leave, too

Show Low to Springerville under a big Arizonian blue sky

By the way the name Show Low is supposed to have originated from a card game between the two founders for control of the town. As we had a short day's ride ahead we had a lie in and a leisurely breakfast which unlike most motels was a fully served meal rather than a self service buffet. We watched in horror as our huge fellow guests consumed equally huge breakfasts before setting forth on their Harley's or in big pick up trucks. The portions of "biscuits and gravy" were particularly over the top. I don't know where the beautiful people of Show Low hang out but it ain't here!
By the time we left it had warmed up a bit but was still cool enough for arm warmers. All today was a series of rolling undulations along highway 60 which was fairly quiet but not as smooth as most tarmac has been up to now. It was pleasantly cool under a big blue sky. Some areas with short scattered trees and other parts were grassland looking a little parched.
We arrived at Springerville, our last stop in Arizona, for lunchtime and booking into the rather tired motel run by asian proprietors. Afterwards Mandy and Chris went to the south to an area of forest for a pleasant spot of birdwatching while Keith serviced his bike.
Only 48 miles today in 3hrs 15 mins. 678 from Oceanside.

Long straight road and through dry rolling grassland. 

Some parts were steeper than others!

This will be our highest accommodation of the trip but will ride higher during the day after tomorrow.  

Globe to Show Low, Az via the Salt River Canyon

Today had two high points. The finish is at 6331 feet asl (1934m) and we crossed the Salt River Canyon which is a scenic high point of the trip. It is like a small version of the Grand Canyon with similar rocks and vegetation.  ( we abandoned a side trip to the GC due to poor weather there.) we descended on a series of switchbacks at a steady 35 mph and came up the other side more sedately!
Rest of day and last 20 miles in particular was a series of ups and downs ending up 2800 higher than we started. There was not a cloud in the sky all day but hottest point was only mid 70s F. 86 miles in 6.5 hours. 629 from Oceanside,Ca.

They named a street in our honor!!

View large to see the route we are about to take down to the bottom of the Salt River Canyon. 

Looking back as we climb back up the other side of the canyon. Keith wasn't hurt in the taking of the picture. 

Over the Top of the World to Globe, Arizona.

As it was a planned short day we stayed for breakfast and Mandy b@ggered up the waffle maker by forgetting to spray it with oil. The staff were very good about it! After that we headed east out of greater Phoenix in cool sun.  Joined highway 60 which we'll use for some days. On the flat for 30 miles or so of smooth tarmac then steady climb to over 4500' (1380m) going through the only tunnel of the trip to the Top of the World where there is a 'curio' shop that sells coffee. As the road continues to rise it's not even the top of the road! After that got up to over 40 mph on several miles of smooth downhill road.
Finished in Globe, a historic and current copper mining town. Some truly spectacular man made alterations to the landscape here. Had my first banana split of the trip. Yummy.
67 miles today with 4 hrs 30 minutes in the saddle. 542.2 from Oceanside so done a fifth already.

Finally got Mandy, Keith and a large cactus together in the sun. It's like herding cats sometimes!

Passing through the Queen Creek tunnel. 

Some helpful roadworks making our passage much safer. 

Through Phoenix in the Rain

When we decided to come through Phoenix I was fearful that the hottest day would be this one. Boy was I wrong! It was cool and rained hard virtually all day. Came in on very busy highway with commuter traffic but drivers kept their distance better than British drivers. Then went onto a published cycle path that started well but ended with dangerous gravel surface so had to cut off early. By the time we got to our nice new motel it was hot and sunny. Glad we got the main distance done in the cool. A virtually flat 94 miles in 6 hours in the saddle at 15.6 mph average. 475 miles from Oceanside. 

Wickenburg Az was a pioneer town now catering for tourists. 

A snack in the rain

Arizona drinking water canal after weather improved but surface worsened. 

Passing into the land of the Cactus

Started in the dull first light after driving back from Lake Havasu City in the dark. Nice and cool but drier than yesterday. Just one junction and two roads today for 99 miles to the largish town of Wickenburg, Arizona. Mostly smooth road surfaces made for easy riding but I'm getting a bit saddlesore in the heat that increased to 94 for the last 25 miles or so after lunch ( which was in the only diner in a bit of a dump called Aguila). For last 20 miles resorted to pouring water over head and feet to cool them down.
The terrain and vegetation was more interesting than the low scrubby desert of the last couple of days. We got to areas of varied xerophytic plants including the large Saguaro cacti much loved of American cartoons and then into the green of irrigated fields. Not a great deal of bird life which is lucky as Keith won't stop to look! Did see a Belted Kingfisher on a roadside wire and I forgot to say Keith got to see his first Roadrunner doing just that on day two.
99 miles today at an average of 16.1 mph to give 6 hours 12 minutes in the saddle. 381 miles from Oceanside.

Hope, Arizona. The settlement that punctuation forgot. 

Prickly character. 

We crossed the desert on our bikes with no names.

Up early on Tuesday for a predawn departure from milepost 66 east of Twentynine Palms after a very windy night. It was calm now but drizzling as we started and raining harder for all the ride. It was also only 70 degrees F. So our journey across featureless desert was cold and wet and we loved it! Much better than blazing sun. Mainly flat and straight roads and very little traffic.
We'd done today's 91 miles by 1.30 pm even after losing Mandy for a while as she missed us go by and doubled back to look for us. "I only closed my eyes for a minute!"
The most notable feature passed today was an ugly "art installation" made with shoes. Made the tortoise VW seem classy in retrospect.
Finished south of Parker, Arizona after crossing the Colorado River into the second state of our trip. Tonight we went to stay in Lake Havasu City which is where they rebuilt the old London Bridge back when I was a lad. Large and odd town and not on my list of places I'd like to live.

Starting in the dark to avoid the heat that did not arrive. 

Keith speeds passed the support vehicle. 

The shoe art installation. 

More Monday Pictures

Those two plates in the foreground are one meal.  Strawberry and white chocolate on pancakes and two eggs over easy with hash browns bacon and sausage! 

But is it art? Roadside "sculpture". 

One of several hills when Chris was overheating.